Replacing an air conditioner is not really a shopping decision, even though it looks like one. The equipment matters, but the outcome is decided by things that are not on the box: whether the system was sized to the house, whether the existing air distribution can deliver what it produces, whether the line set and electrical suit the new equipment, and whether anyone measured any of it before the truck arrived.
A like-for-like swap puts a new box where the old one sat. A proper installation starts with the house, works back to the equipment, and ends with a system that holds setpoint on the hottest afternoon of the year without running itself to death.
When is it time to replace an air conditioner rather than repair it?
Replacement becomes the better answer in a handful of situations.
The clearest case is a compressor failure on equipment already 12 to 15 years old. Compressors are the most expensive single component, and putting one into aging equipment with a marginal coil and an original blower buys a few years at a high price. The second is a leaking evaporator coil paired with an outdoor unit from the same era. Coils fail from the inside out, and once one has gone the rest is usually not far behind.
Beyond those, the reasons get more gradual. Rising electric bills without a change in habits. A system that needs refrigerant every season. Rooms that never cooled properly even when the equipment was new, which points to a sizing or distribution problem a new unit alone will not solve. Or a house you plan to stay in for another decade, where reliability and operating cost pay back over time.
How is an air conditioning system sized for a house?
By calculation, not by square footage and not by matching the old unit’s tonnage. Sizing starts with a load calculation — often called a Manual J — that accounts for the things that actually determine how much heat a house gains.
The calculation looks at window area and orientation, insulation and air sealing, ceiling height, roof and attic conditions, how the house distributes air, occupants, and local summer design temperatures. Two houses of the same square footage on the same street can land on different sizes if one has west-facing glass and a hot attic and the other has shade and a newer envelope.
An oversized system cools the house too fast, satisfies the thermostat before it has pulled out much humidity, and then sits idle. The result is a house that feels clammy at 72 degrees, and it short-cycles, which is harder on the compressor than a long steady run. An undersized system runs continuously on design days and never quite catches up.
Oversizing is the more common error. The fix is a real calculation, then equipment selected to match it. Static pressure testing belongs in the same conversation, because a correctly sized system attached to a restrictive air distribution system will still underperform.
What does SEER2 mean, and how much should efficiency matter?
SEER2 is the current efficiency rating for air conditioning equipment, replacing the older SEER standard. Higher numbers mean more cooling per unit of electricity. The minimum allowed rating depends on the region, and equipment sold in Virginia has to meet the regional standard in effect at the time of installation.
Efficiency is worth paying for up to a point, and the point depends on your situation. A higher-efficiency system costs more up front and returns the difference through lower summer bills. Payback is faster in a house with high cooling hours, a hot attic and a leaky air distribution system, and slower in a well-shaded house with a moderate load.
Three practical notes. The equipment rating is not what you actually get: air distribution losses, refrigerant charge and airflow determine real-world efficiency, and a premium system installed poorly performs like a cheap one. Some high-efficiency equipment requires specific line set sizes or indoor coil matches, which adds scope. And efficiency decisions belong after the load calculation, because the right size at a good rating beats an oversized premium unit.
Does installing a new AC system require a permit?
Yes. Replacing or installing a central air conditioning system involves electrical work and refrigerant handling, and in this part of Virginia that work is permitted and inspected locally. The permit is pulled before work starts and the installation is inspected afterward.
OHA handles the permit. A contractor who suggests skipping the permit is telling you something about the rest of the job.
What does the installation process look like?
Assessment and load calculation. A technician walks the house, measures, checks the existing air distribution and electrical service, and runs the load calculation. You get a recommendation with the reasoning behind the size and the efficiency options.
Written proposal. Equipment specified, scope of work, what is included and what is not, permit, and the warranty statement. You approve before anything is ordered.
Equipment ordering and scheduling. Most installations are scheduled once the equipment is on hand. You get a date and an expected duration.
Removal and preparation. The old equipment comes out, the refrigerant is recovered properly, and the pad, line set route, and electrical are prepared for the new system.
Installation. New equipment set and connected, line set brazed and pressure tested, system evacuated, refrigerant charged to the weight on the nameplate, condensate and drain handled, electrical and disconnect in place, and the thermostat installed and configured.
Commissioning. The system is started and measured: airflow, temperature split, refrigerant pressures and temperatures, and static pressure.
Inspection and walkthrough. The permit inspection is completed, and you get a walkthrough of the system, the filter location and size, the thermostat, and what to expect in the first weeks.
What warranty comes with an AC installation?
OHA installations carry a 1-year parts and labor warranty, covering the work and the parts for the first year after installation.
Anything beyond that is the equipment manufacturer’s, not OHA’s. Those terms differ by brand and model, so the paperwork that ships with your specific unit is the authority, and it should go in the same folder as your invoice. Registration requirements, if any, come from the same source. Ask the installer what needs registering and whether the office files it for you.
Can an AC replacement be financed?
Financing is available through Wells Fargo. See financing options.What should you have ready before an installation visit?
Very little, but a few things help. Clear access to the indoor unit, the outdoor unit, and the path the line set will take. Note pets that need securing, gate codes, or parking constraints. If you have the model and serial numbers of the existing equipment, have them handy; they tell the technician the age and refrigerant type before arrival.
If the system is still running, leave it running.
How do you schedule an AC replacement?
Call (571) 485-9343 with your address and a sentence about the situation: whether the system has failed, how old it is, and whether you plan to stay in the house. You can also send those details through our contact page. That is enough for dispatch to schedule the right visit. If the system has failed and the house is not safe to occupy, use the emergency line instead.
Frequently asked questions
How long does an AC installation take?
A straightforward replacement is typically a one-day job. Installations that involve new line sets, electrical upgrades, or difficult attic access can run into a second day. You will be given an expected duration with the proposal.
Do I have to replace the indoor coil and the outdoor unit at the same time?
Not always, but they should be matched. A new outdoor unit paired with an old coil often loses efficiency and can put the compressor at risk. The assessment will tell you whether the existing coil is compatible and in good condition.
Will a new system lower my electric bill?
Usually, if the old system was older, undersized, oversized, or running with a refrigerant charge problem. How much depends on the equipment selected, how well your air distribution performs, and how you run the house. Nobody can give you a reliable number without the load calculation and the equipment specification.
Can you install a system in a house that has never had central air?
It depends on the house, and the answer sometimes points to a different system type. A house with no existing air distribution is a much larger project than a replacement, and one where ductless mini-splits or a different approach may serve you better. That is settled during the assessment, not over the phone.
Is the permit included?
Yes. OHA pulls the permit and coordinates the inspection as part of the installation.
What if I want to add cooling to one room instead of the whole house?
A ductless mini-split is often the better answer for an addition, a converted garage, or a single problem room, because it needs no distribution runs through the walls. OHA installs those systems as well, and there is a separate page covering that work.
Current Coupons
- $250 off a water heater
- Free indoor air quality inspection
- Free plumbing inspection
- Free roof inspection
- Free estimate or second opinion on equipment installation
- $50 off any repair
Offers may not be combined with any other offers or discounts. Mention your coupon when you book: (571) 485-9343.
